The Sisters’ Guide to Microneedling

Benefits can include decreases in pore size, fine lines and wrinkles, stretch marks and acne scarring, says a leading dermatologist.

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Published August 08, 2024
J. Elite Esthetics owner Jazmin Walker servicing a client with microneedling
Adedayo Kosoko

Is there a skincare regimen, treatment or product you swear by? Share your thoughts in the comments below.

Despite what its name suggests, microneedling is a minimally invasive exfoliating procedure that is meant to stimulate collagen. Doing so typically leads to plumper skin with fewer lines and wrinkles.

Microneedling targets just the top layer of skin. “Benefits…for skin of color include decreased pore size, decreased fine lines and wrinkles, decreased stretch marks and decreased acne scarring,” says board-certified dermatologist Jeanine Downie, MD. The procedure works on multiple areas of the body, so if you have stretch marks on your stomach or buttocks, repeated sessions might reduce their appearance.

Perhaps you’ve already benefitted from several microdermabrasion sessions and you’re thinking about graduating to microneedling after hearing a close girlfriend rave about it and admiring her newfound glow. First, know that the procedure isn’t covered by insurance and each session will likely cost within the $200-$300 range.

With traditional microneedling, a board-certified dermatologist pricks your skin using teeny-tiny sterilized needles, so you may feel some discomfort. Still, it’s probably your best bet if you’re in the first timers club. But if you’re feeling adventurous (and if you’re doctor recommends it, of course), ask about microneedling with radiofrequency (heat is involved) or platelet-rich plasma (aka the “vampire” facial using the patient’s actual blood, so stay away from this one if you’re squeamish!).

Danielle Gray, who dubs herself as The Style and Beauty Doctor, shared her experience with radiofrequency microneedling in 2022. "So far, I would say it's been worth it for me based on the results that I'm seeing,” she said in her YouTube clip. The next day, she noted that the process “hurt a lot” but goes by “relatively quickly,” adding that eating afterward was a little painful.

“Every patient should have numbing paste put on them for at least 35 minutes to an hour prior to the procedure to decrease their discomfort,” Downie cautions.

Like many cosmetic skin procedures, several visits are necessary to see results, which typically last anywhere from four to six months. Downtime usually takes around 24 hours, and yes, it’s safe for darker skin!

In fact, when it comes to skin of color, a 2023 study found that microneedling was safe and effective for treating acne, post-acne scarring, melasma (brown patches) and hyperhidrosis (excessive sweating). Even when combined with subcision (a procedure to reduce the appearance of acne scars), microneedling may be more suitable for melanated sisters compared to chemical peels and lasers. At the end of the study, 95 percent of participants noted an improvement in their skin with very little side effects, which subsided in a couple days with hardly any downtime needed.

Your dermatologist should give you the rundown on aftercare, but steer clear of exfoliants and active ingredients like vitamin C and retinol for a few days after your appointment. And Sis, as tempting as it may be, resist the urge to purchase at-home microneedling devices as you could end up scarring your complexion.

Sisters with clotting or bleeding disorders or a compromised immune system should avoid microneedling. The same warning applies if you take blood thinners, struggle with eczema or manage diabetes.

Is there a skincare regimen, treatment or product you swear by? Share your thoughts in the comments below

Princess Gabbara is a New York City-based writer, editor, author and storyteller. She has contributed to Grammy.com, MTV News, Billboard, Oprah Daily, Shondaland, Essence, Ebony and Shape. You can follow Princess on Twitter at @princessgabbara and learn more about her and her work at princessgabbara.com.