Black Women Say This Treatment Can Transform Tresses

This salon service could give your hair shine, smoothness, and manageability for weeks or months. Here's what to know about keratin treatments.

Published April 18, 2025

illustration of before and after of keratin treatment on hair

Keisha Okafor

Is a keratin hair treatment something you have tried or might consider? Share your thoughts in the comments below.

If stronger strands and lower maintenance are what you’re seeking at this point in your hair journey, a keratin treatment could be the way to go. But is less frizz and breakage worth the time and money?

What’s the hype about keratin treatments?

Touted for delivering smooth and shiny results, keratin treatments have been a popular salon service for years. And since they don’t contain the harsh chemicals found in relaxers (more on that later), these treatments have become increasingly common among Black women who want more manageability without completely altering their natural curl pattern.

According to Darrius Peace, a natural hair expert and salon owner based in Birmingham, Alabama, the process involves coating the strands with keratin, a protein naturally found in the hair. “Essentially, it strengthens the hair,” he says. A keratin treatment can also make coarse, dry and stubborn silvers more manageable. “Keratin treatments are excellent for easier taming of wild gray hairs into a smooth, consistent flow with the rest of the hair,” Peace says.

Keratin treatments are excellent for easier taming of wild gray hairs into a smooth consistent flow with the rest of the hair.

Laurel Rush, a hairstylist and salon owner based in New York City, points out more benefits of keratin treatments, including greater elasticity, sealed hair cuticles, and easier at-home maintenance. “As someone who has received and provides the service, I highly recommend keratin treatments,” Rush says. “You will spend less time managing your hair, [and there’s] less heat required to smooth your hair. Over time, you will notice your hair becomes healthier and stronger.”

How keratin treatments work

While keratin treatments can smooth your texture and loosen your natural curl pattern (results may vary depending on hair texture), the effects aren’t permanent. This is because keratin simply coats the cuticle instead of breaking the hair's bonds, the way relaxers do. Plus, the treatment lasts six to 12 weeks on average, according to Rush, making it an option for sisters who don't like the grow-out process of relaxers.

Rush explains that a typical service begins with cleansing the hair with a clarifying shampoo to remove buildup. Once the keratin treatment is applied, your stylist will blow dry the keratin into the hair before sealing it in with a flat iron. Five to seven passes in small sections should do the trick. “Some treatments require you to shampoo the hair after sealing the treatment into the hair,” Rush says.

You will spend less time managing your hair, [and there’s] less heat required to smooth your hair. Over time, you will notice your hair becomes healthier and stronger.

Are keratin treatments worth the investment?

A keratin treatment can range between $100 and $500, according to Peace, who deems it a worthwhile investment if you’re looking to maintain “a consistent texture, especially in cases of humid conditions.” Rush warns that the service may be time-consuming, taking about three hours.

Some keratin treatments contain formaldehyde, a chemical known to cause cancer. This ingredient could also cause side effects, including eye irritation, headaches, and nausea. Err on the side of caution and talk to your stylist about the formulas they use before booking the service. Discuss any concerns with a health care provider.

Good to know: “Keratin [treatments] can be made without formaldehyde, which is the active ingredient that gives the hair a smooth texture,” says Rush, who notes that the results from formaldehyde-free formulas are usually still effective. She also mentions that various formulas serve different purposes. For example, some formulas are designed to protect color-treated hair, while others provide intense hydration to dry, coarse textures, she says. Consult with your stylist to determine which formula may suit you. If you’re pregnant, it’s recommended to avoid keratin treatments altogether.

How to maintain a keratin treatment

Some treatments require that you avoid getting your hair wet for a few days after the service. Additionally, it’s wise to limit activities that cause excessive sweating, such as heavy workouts, and refrain from wearing ponytails.When it comes to general aftercare, Rush suggests using sulfate-free shampoos and steering clear of salt water and chlorine.

Is a keratin hair treatment something you have tried or might consider? Share your thoughts in the comments below.

Anissa Gabbara is a Michigan-based freelance writer who enjoys the beauty, health, lifestyle, and pop culture space. In addition to Sisters, she has contributed to Sesi magazine, and Maple City Our Town. She is also an experienced PR and marketing professional.